Universal folder for sewing machines



Jan.. 28, 1936. J, GALKIN 2,028,773

UNIVERSAL FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Aug. 5l, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet1 L TMI BY ATTORNEY Jan. 28, 1936. .1, GALKIN UNIVERSAL FOLDER FORSEWING MACHINES Filed Aug. 3l, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 JUSEPH GA/.K//V

' INVENTOR. Eri/)6.1M

ATTORNEY Patented Jian. 28v 1936 SAL FOLDER FR SEE/m6 MACHINESApplication AugllSt 31, `1934:, Serial No. 742,338

(Cl. 11E- 147) 4 Claims.

This inventionrelates to a new and improved folder for sewing machinesand more particularly to a folder which is adapted for applyingwaistbands to the waistband portion of trousers.

An object of this invention is to provide a folder which is adapted forapplying waistbands consisting of a layer of lining material and anintermediate layer of stifening fabric such as canvas in superimposedrelation upon the waistband portion of trousers and cause said waistbandto be afxed by machine stitching to the trousers without any folds inthe stiifening fabric.

Another object of this invention is to'provide a universal folderdesigned for applying straight waistbands as well as pleated waistbandsto the waistband portion of trousers.

Another object of this invention is to provide a folder having a lowerportion designed to receive the waistband fabrics from a supply reelpositioned above the operating table of the sewing machine, the saidfabrics entering said folder in a direction transverse to the line ofstitching and being folded in an oblique direction and caused to leavean upper portion of said folder in a direction parallel with the line ofstitching.

Another object of this invention is to position the outer marginal edgeof the hemming section of the upper portion of the folder in angularrelation with the line of stitching so as to prevent the formation ofpuckers in the lining material of the waistbands.

Another object of this invention is to provide a folder for applyingready made or pre-formed waistbands to trousers, the said folder beingdesigned for the independent adjustment of the trousers fabric guidingmeans to permit variation of the width of trouser fabric which is to beinserted between the stiiening fabric and the lining material of thewaistband.

With the above and other objects in View, the invention will behereinafter more particularly described, and the combination andarrangement of parts will be shown in the accompanying drawings andpointed out in the claims which form part of this speciiication.

Reference will now be had to the drawings, wherein like numerals ofreference designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, inwhich:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the folder mounted on the base-plate of asewing machine.

Figure 2 is a front elevation ofthe folder.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the folder.

Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional View of a plain waistband as completedon the machine.

Figure 5 is an enlarged sectional view of a pleated waistband ascompleted on the machine.

The folder l0, as illustrated, consists of a supporting-base Il havingslots I2 adapted to receive screws I3 for securing the folder to thebase-plate I4 of a sewing machine. These slots are so disposed in thesupporting-base Il that the folder I0 may be shifted in a directioncrosswise of the line of seam formation to different set positions.Integral with the supporting-base Il is an outwardly flaring angularlybent folding section l5 having a right-angular extension I6 positionedbelow the base-plate I4 of the sewing machine. The extension I6comprises a fixed guiding slot I1 serving to receive one edge of a bandof stiiening fabric IB from a supply reel (not shown) but positionedabove the operating table or base-plate I4 of the sewing machine. Thesupply reel carries a roll of ready made or pre-formed waistbandmaterial made of a layer of lining and a stiffening layer of canvasstitched together lengthwise along one edge. Achannelshaped guideway I9positioned parallel with the line of stitching has been formed on theextension I6 and serves to receive the rectangular portion of a slidearm 2l) in close engagement. The slide arm 20 has a slot 2l to receive ascrew 22 for'securing the arm to the extension I6 in different setpositions. A U-shaped guide 23 has been provided for guiding thestitched edge u of the pre-formed waistband material. The guide 23 ispermanently united to a bar 24 fastened to the slide arm 20 by screws25. The guide 23 may thus be shifted in a direction parallel with theguiding slot Il to form between them a path of adjustable width for theparticular width of waistband desired. The width of the waistband to beformed is governed by the width of the stiffening fabric i8 shown inFigure 1.

A hemming section 26 has been permanently united to the undersurface ofthe extension I6, below the guiding slot Il in parallel relation withsaid guide. The hemming section 26 is substantially U-shaped and has aguiding member or tongue 21 centrally secured therein.

Mounted on the supporting-base Il is a channeleshaped guideway 28positioned transverse with the line of stitching and serves to receivethe rectangular portion of a slide arm 29 in close engagement. The slidearm 2S has a slot 30 to receive a screw 3l for securing the arm to thebase Il in different set positions. A U-shaped guide 32 has beenprovided for guiding the stitched edge of the pre-formed waistbandmaterial, The guide 32 is permanently united to 55 the slide arm 2d.rI'he guide 32 may thus be shifted in a direction parallel with the lineof stitching of the sewing machine. a. hemming section d3 has beenformed from one end portion of a plate 3d mounted above the supportingbase il and secured to said base by means of an arm and fastening means36. The folding edge 3l of the hemming section 33 has been positioned inangular relation with the U-shaped guiding member 32, forming a taperingpassageway between these members with the largest end of the taperterminating at the needle 3d. The

hemming section 33 is substantially U-shaped and has a guiding member ortongue centrally so cured thereini The tongue 39 projects outwardly fromthe'hexnming section 3i' and slopes downwardly and terminates adjacentthe needle @t at apoint d.

An independent guide di for the edge of the trouser fabric has beenpositioned on the baseplate It of the sewing machine and is providedwith an edge portion o2 which'extends slightly upward. As shown inFigure 1, the guide di slots d3 serving to receive screws dfi forsecuring said guide and the. edge portion d2 thereof in various adjustedpositions with relation to the folding edge 31 of the heron/ring sectionThe guide di may'thus be adjusted on the basepiate ld and thisadjustment permits variation of the width of trouser fabric to beinserted between the stiifening fabric and the lining material of thewaistband.

In operation, the roll of pre-formed waistband material 45 above theoperating table or baseplate I4 of the sewing machine, is inserted inthe lower folding and guiding section lo with the stiifening fabric 3facing up and with the free edge of the stiiening fabric in contact withthe guiding slot il; the stitched edge of lining material di andstiiening fabric i8 being in contact with the U-shaped guide 23. Thewaistband material is drawn through the lower folding and guidingsection 46 and is folded in an oblique 'direction about the angularlybent section i5 and is inserted in the folding and guiding section onthe supporting-base H with the lining material facing up and with thefree edge of the stiiening fabric in contact 'with a guide channel doformed by an upturned edge 43 of the supportingbase The stiffeningfabric goes through 1in-f folded. 'Ihe free edge of the stiifeningfabric leaves the guide channel it slightly to the right of the needle38. AThe stitched edge material il and stiiening fabric it contact withthe U-shaped guide. The edgeof the: lining material comes out from. therear end of the angularly positioned hemming section 33 folded to thedesired size or width of waistband and is immediately stitched adjacentthe folded edge and is drawn through the folder by a feed mechanisin(not shown).

The object of the angular position of the hemmer section 33 is to causethe underfolded lining material to enter the hemming section 33 with awidth less than the desired width of waistband and to leave the folderat the needle with thedesired width so as to cause the lining fabric tobe under tension and to lay taut'on thel stiffening fabric. There is avery narrow linear pasto be taut at the point of exit from the folderand prevents the formation of puclrers or foids of lining tions intocoacting relationship,

- pre-formed waistband material above the operating table of the sewingmachine so as to keep it out of the way of the operator and also toprevent oii from dripping down on the said material if it were placedbelow the operating table.

The stitching mechanism of the sewing niachine may be of any characterbut preferably of the type forming zigzag stitching which pass a1-ternately through the folded edge of the iining and through the trouserand stiening fabrics and then only through the trouser and stifeninglfabrics 5w and i3; as shown in Figures 4 and 5.

claim: A folder for sewing machines designed for applying waistbands to.trousers, comprising a supporting base member, a folding 'and guidingsection for receiving a waistband which is composed of two stripsstitched together along one edge, said section being positioned belowsaid base and transverse tothe line of stitching, a folding and guidingsection positioned on said base and parallel with line of stitching forreceiving said waistband and an intermediate ob= ligue folding sectionconnecting said upper and lower sections into coasting relationship,said inm termediate section being designed to reverse the position ofthe strips composing said waistband. 2. A folder for sewing machinesdesigned ,for applying waistbands to trousers, comprising a supporting4base member, a, folding and guiding for the edge of the trouser fabricand means for supporting said independent guide whereby it i may beadjusted to permit variation of the width of trouser fabric inserted thewaistband.

A folder for sewing machines designed for between the layers of applyingwaistbands to trousers, comprising a.v

supporting base member, a folding and guiding section for receiving awaistband which is composed of two strips stitched together along oneedge, said section being positioned below said base and transverse tothe line of stitching, a folding and guiding section positioned on saidbase and parallel with the line of stitching for receiving' saidwaistband and an intermediate oblique folding section connecting saidupper and lower secsaid folding member on said base being angularlypositioned with relation to the guiding member on said base and forminga tapering passageway for the lining material with the largest end ofthe taper terminating at the needle and causing the lining layer of saidwaistband to lay taut in waistband making relationship.

4. A folder for sewing machines designed for applying waistbands totrousers, comprising a supporting base member, a folding and guidingsection for receiving a waistband which is cornposed of two stripsstitched together along one edge, said section being positioned belowsaid base and*transverse to the line of stitching, a fciding and guidingsection positioned on said base and said waistband and an intermediateoblique folding section connecting said upper and lower sections intocoacting relationship, said folding member on said base being angularlypositioned with relation to the guiding member on said base and forminga tapering passageway for the lining l material with the largest end ofthe taper terminating at the needle and causing the lining layer of saidwaistband to lay taut in waistband making relationship, and anindependent guide for the edge of the trouser fabric.

JOSEPH GALKIN.

